Hayden Abroad

Dispatches from Somewhere in the World

Wednesday, May 30, 2007

Of Ticos and Nicas

Citizens of Nicaragua (Nicas) and Costa Rica (Ticos) don´t really like each other that much. These neighboring countries share many cultural similarities but resentment runs high.

Costa Rica´s peaceful history stands in direct contrast to the violence that´s periodically marred Nicaragua, and partially due of these differences, Costa Rica (meaning ¨the rich coast¨) has developed much more prosperously. As a result, many Nicas have sought work in Costa Rica, often illegally. Ticos contend that these immigrants stress the country´s social security and safety net. At the same time, they also need Nicas to perform many low-paying jobs, such as harvesting coffee. Exports of coffee and bananas, along with tourism from the United States, sustains the Costa Rican economy.

Ticos are a gentle and tolerant people, but they have concerns about the way Nicaragua is impacting their country. Specifically, they have concerns over the extension of CAFTA, the free-trade agreement on which Costa Rica will vote on later this year. They also are watching with trepidation the moves Daniel Ortega, Nicaragua´s newly elected President, and his ties to Venezuelan Hugo Chavez. A good percentage of Costa Rica´s oil and commerce comes from Venezuela.

During both the Revolution and the Contra War, rebel groups used Costa Rica as one of the bases for invading Nicaragua. When the Sandinista movement toppled the Somoza dictatorship, they enjoyed solidarity with the Costa Rican people. In 1987, Costa Rican President Oscar Arias won a Nobel Peace Prize for his part in ending the civil wars that plagued the isthmus.

But today in Costa Rica there is a wariness founded in economic concerns. Despite Costa Rica´s relatively high level of development, the country has many social problems and high levels of foreign debt. Tourism and commodity imports are notoriously fickle industries, and recently Ticos have struggled with a downturn in their economic fortunes and standard of living. Overall, they see Nicas as imposing on their country. For their part, Nicas in both countries harbor resentment for the way they are treated: like criminals or second-class citizens.

Having lived in Nicaragua for four months and having only visited Costa Rica for ten days, I inevitably saw Costa Rica through Nicaraguan eyes. I was interested in the labor conditions and Tico attitudes towards their neighbors. Many of my friends warned me that I may not enjoy my time because the country is so touristy and much more expensive. Yet despite my loyalty to Nicaragua, I found myself charmed by Costa Rica: It is simply a beautiful country, green and biologically diverse and interesting to explore. The people are friendly and open, more so than Nicaragua, I believe, perhaps because they have more (and better) experiences with foreigners.

For me what all this is really is a fascinating study in what it means to live side-by-side one another and what people will do to survive. None of these issues are going away, so it is necessary to find a way to compromise, to co-exist. Ticos and Nicas share many things, and they have a joint responsibility to create a peaceful and prosperous region.

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